Hours: 4.4
Rudder total: 23.8

Got stiffeners riveted to the skins.  The top rib, too.  Also have the doublers and nut-plates riveted to the spar.  Rudder horn is in place as well.

This is how I back-rivetet the stiffeners to the skins.  I got a back-rivet set from cleaveland tools that slides into their c-frame tool.  On the bottom (under the skin) is a flat set from a squeezer.  The rivet gun then does the same job as with a regular back-rivet set except I don't have to hold it.  This job went really, really fast.  Scott and I put all the rivets in ahead of time and taped them down.  Then it was just a matter of bang-bang-bang, shift the skin, bang-bang-bang, etc.

This is Scott putting rivets in the second skin and taping them down while I was riveting the stiffeners on the first.

Me riveting the stiffeners onto the skin using the c-frame tool and the special back-rivet set.

The only real challenge of the day was this last rivet at the trailing edge of the bottom rib.  There's no way I could get anything in there to buck or squeeze the rivet and did not want to use a blind rivet.  So I put the rivet in the hole and taped it.  Then I put a back-rivet plate under (not easily visible in this picture but the cleco clamps are holding to it).  I fit this chisel onto the shop side of the rivet and hit the chisel with the rivet gun.  Worked great ... except that the skin jumped and I ended up setting the rivet with the head sticking out of the hole.  Oh well.  I've got plenty of practice drilling out rivets from doing the vertical stabilizer.  I drilled out the rivet and had to go up to a size 1/8 hole (AN4 rivet).  I used an "oops" rivet for this.  That's a rivet with an AN3 head but an AN4 body.  That way from the top it still fits perfectly into the dimple, but the body is large enough to fit into the new 1/8 hole.  I did the same trick with the chisel, but clamped it down better to prevent jumping.  I had trouble getting the bigger rivet to set with this offset method, but I was able to get it set enough so that I could fit a bucking bar in and finish the job.

Nicely set rivet, but with all the efforts in the area I'm sorry to say I scratched up the primer pretty good.  Oh well.  I'll touch it up before it gets hidden by the other skin.

Another angle of my nicely set rivet.  The bucking bar used to finish the job is visible in the top-center of the picture.  You can see the smaller shop-heads of the AN3 rivets down the line also.  ...  You can see all the scratching, too.

 I like this bucking bar.  I have two others (including one made of tungsten) but this one gets into tight spots.  ....  I put the tape on to help prevent it from scratching up the primer, but it was too late since I already managed to scratch up the primer when I thought to do it.  I really wish I thought of it when I was doing the Vertical Stabilizer.  I scratched and mangled that up so bad, sometimes I wonder if in the end I might just re-order all the parts and do the VS over again.  ...  Probably won't but I do think about it.

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